What does Malbec mean to you?
Over the last few years Malbec has become one of the go to reds for easy drinking. This has been driven by the Argentinian producers who have found their niche with this grape and have really made something of the wine and done a superb job with their marketing too. This is not to take anything away from Argentinian Malbec, we have some great wines right across the price range as the country looks to show off what it can produce at the top end too. The exuberant juiciness is its hallmark and combined with its velvety texture makes it a winner. The flavours are predominantly blackberry, plum and black cherry and the finish can have a sweet tobacco note. Sometimes there is a hint of chocolate too. As the market has developed many of the producers have been upping their game and producing wines with real depth and extra tannins and these are capable of aging well too. These will take on the best wines that France can offer. Our range extends from entry level Kaiken Classico at GBP10.50 right up to the Zuccardi Aluvional from Tupungato at GBP69.95. The one I want to try is the Algodon Premium Reserve at GBP26.95 (this one is blended with Bonarda, another exciting variety to “research”). In the summer we will receive a small allocation of 2017 Bramare Malbec, Chañares Estate, Valle de Uco (voted best Argentinian Malbec for the last 2 vintages) which promises to be really special.
Having said this, have you looked at wines from the home of Malbec? Broader South West France is the home of this wonderful grape, producing some excellent robust reds which are generally earthier and more tannic than their South American cousins. The higher tannin and acidity does mean that these wines will age well and longer than the South American ones. Cahors is the real focus of Malbec in Southern France, following the resurgence in Argentina there is a new development of and focus on these wines too. Cahors Malbecs are still good with steak but are better suited to the hearty local cuisine of fatty roasted sausages, full of herbs, focussing on the black pepper and spice notes. Well worth a try for something different with your upcoming barbecue. The “Malbec effect” is influencing the producers here as many of the wines are now including the grape name on the label. Our French regional Malbec wines range from the Mont Rocher at GBP8.95 up to the Ch. du Cedres in Cahors at GBP19.95 with a few others in between.
Interestingly Malbec is a key, if often overlooked, component of Bordeaux wines, usually a minor partner along with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Where it is included it is used to add extra layers of colour and spice. In the early 2010s Marc Hellyar made a single varietal Malbec at Chateau Civrac, I had one of these recently and it was stunning. Sadly it is no longer available here but do keep an eye out for them. In Bordeaux the Malbec influence is greatest in the Cote de Bourg and other peripheral areas.
If you look hard you will also find some wines from the Loire made with Malbec though this is primarily used in blends, giving an earthy depth.
As ever with these thoughts please use them as an invitation to explore, wine is made to be enjoyed so taste away! Let us know your thoughts.
Andrew
What does Malbec mean to you?
By Andrew, Wadebridge Wines in Wines of the world Wednesday, March 15, 2023